She does it in front of people. That is not incidental. It is the whole design.
A comment about the state of the kitchen, delivered warmly. A remark about how tired you look, addressed to the room. Something about how some people manage to work and still cook properly, said to your husband while you are standing there. Each one is small enough that objecting would make you the one who ruined lunch.
The three options
Say nothing. Costs you nothing today and everything over five years. It also teaches the room that this is fine, and the room includes your children.
Escalate. "That's a horrible thing to say." True, satisfying, and it hands her the role she is most comfortable in: the wounded older woman being attacked at her own table. Now the conversation is about your tone.
Name it flatly and move on. This is the one. It is unsatisfying, which is exactly why it works.
The words
"That's a strange thing to say."
Said evenly, without heat, looking at her. Then keep going with whatever you were doing.
Do not explain why it was strange. Do not ask her what she meant — she will tell you she meant nothing, and then you are arguing about intent, which is unwinnable and always has been. The sentence is not a question and it does not need an answer.
What it does is take the remark out of the category of things said in passing and put it in the category of things that were noticed. That is all you need. Comments like these depend entirely on gliding past.
Other versions, depending on your nerve and the room:
"We're all right, thanks." — for advice you did not ask for.
"Say that again?" — for the ones dressed up as a joke. Said flatly, most of those do not survive being repeated out loud. Do not use it on something said outright; she will simply say it again, louder, and you will have handed her the floor.
"I'd rather not do this at the table." — for when it has gone past a comment.
Do not do this the funny way
The temptation is a joke. It defuses, everyone laughs, nobody has to feel anything.
It also confirms that the remark was a joke, which is the exact position she needs it to hold. Six months of that and there is a shared family understanding that this is your little routine together, and now you cannot object without being told you always laughed before.
Flat beats funny. Flat is harder.
Afterwards, with your partner
"Did you hear what she said about the kitchen?"
If he did not hear it — and often he genuinely did not — do not argue about whether it happened. Ask for something specific instead:
"I'm not asking you to think she meant it. I'm asking you to say 'Mum, don't' when it happens. From you it's a family thing. From me it's a daughter-in-law being difficult."
In a room where you are being needled, you need one person visibly on your side, and it has to be him. It will cost him something: a stiff car journey, his mother's face. It will still cost him less than it costs you.
When it happens over text
Easier, because you have time. Worse, because it is on a screen and you will read it eleven times.
Answer slowly and short.
"That doesn't sit right with me."
Nothing else. No paragraph, no history, no "I've been meaning to say." Long messages get answered line by line, and by the fourth reply you are defending something you said in the second and the original remark has vanished.
If she asks what you mean by that:
"The bit about the kitchen."
Name the thing, do not build the case. Five words is a boundary; five paragraphs is a negotiation.
When she is testing whether it worked
She will. Not consciously, necessarily, but the week after you name something, something else will arrive to see whether the new rule was real.
Say the same thing again, in the same voice.
"That's a strange thing to say."
Repetition is the whole method. The first time is a moment. The third time is a fact about how you are spoken to, and people adjust to facts.
If it never stops
Some of it will not stop, and there is no sentence in this article that fixes a person who has decided about you.
What changes is how much of you it gets. You can go to fewer lunches. You can arrive later and leave earlier. You can stop being alone with her in kitchens. None of that is defeat. It is deciding how much access someone has earned, which is a thing you are allowed to decide about an adult who is unkind to you.
What it will cost
The first time you say it, lunch will be strange for about ninety seconds, and you will spend the drive home certain you overreacted.
You will be told you are sensitive. Possibly that you have changed. If she has an audience she likes, you may become a small character in a story told about you, and you will not get to correct it.
Set against that: not saying it costs you the same lunch, every month, for as long as this goes on, plus the particular tiredness of being spoken to like that in front of people who love you and say nothing.
You are choosing which of those you would rather carry. Most people, having carried both, pick the ninety seconds.
One story and one script, once a week
No advice you have read before, and nothing we would not say to a friend at our own kitchen table.
The list opens shortly. We would rather have nowhere to put your address than pretend to collect it.